MODERN SELVES and FASHION
In the 14th century, Europe was ravaged by the Black Death. Many cities lost 60 to 80 % of their populations. Survivors could not count on inherited identities, so they were forced to become modern, self-fashioning individuals. They used dress to claim new identities, and started the modern system of fashionable change.
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- Figure 1.1: Burgundian Fashion. Petrus Christus, Portrait of a Young Girl, 1460
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- Figure 1.2: Cyclical Time and the Wheel of Fortune. Dürer, Wheel of Fortune, in Sebastian Brandt, Ship of Fools, 1498
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- Figure 1.3: Images of the Plague in Popular Culture. Michael Wolgemut, Dance of Death, 1493
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- Figure 1.4: Burgundy and Lands Under Control of Charles “the Bold”
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- Figure 1.5: Modesty and Piety in Burgundian Fashion. Roger van der Weyden, Portrait of a Lady, 1460
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- Figure 1.6: The Modest Dress of the Man who made Burgundy Rich and Powerful. Roger van der Weyden, Philip the Good, 1450
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- Figure 1.7: The Use of Red Fabric in a Painter’s Self Portrait. Jan van Eyck, Portrait of a Man in a Turban, 1433
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- Figure 1.8: Charm and Cold Calculation in the Dress and Demeanor of Italian Elites. Bronzino, Eleanor of Toledo and Son, 1545
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- Figure 1.9: The Fashion for Books and Classical Knowledge in Italian Dress. Bronzino, Portrait of a Girl with a Book,1545
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- Figure 1.10: Expressions of Inner Character and Italian Fashion. Andrea Solario, Charles II d’Amboise, ca. 1507
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- Figure 1.11: Masculinity and Discipline in Spanish Fashion. Jakob Seisenegger, Portrait of Emperor Charles V with Dog, 1532
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- Figure 1.12: Military Prowess and Armor as Fashion in Philip II’s Spain. Titian, Portrait of Philip II, 1550–1
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- Figure 1.13: The Disciplined Body of Women Defenders of the Faith in Spanish Fashion. Juan Pantoja de la Cruz, Isabel de Valois, 1565
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- Figure 1.14: Bourgeois Fashion in the Netherlands. Bartholomeus van der Helst, Abraham del Court and His Wife Maria de Kaersgieter, 1654
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- Figure 1.15: Noble Fashions in the Netherlands. Anthony Van Dyck, Lady Charlotte Butke and Her Son, c. 1631
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- Figure 1.16: Identifying Work Clothing for Dutch Merchants and Artisans. Rembrandt, Syndics of the Draper’s Guild, 1662
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- Figure 1.17: The Theatrical Framing of Louis XIV as a Classical-Style Hero. Hyacinthe Rigaud, Portrait of Louis XIV, King of France, 1701
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- Figure 1.18: French Military Masculinity in Fashion, Luxury, and Seriousness. Claude Lefevre, Louis XIV, c. 1670
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- Figure 1.19: Fashionable Attire for Women at Court. Marie Therese de Bourbon, Princesse de Conty, c. 1690
